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MatsuShinshii
Black Belt
Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 1423
Location: Kentucky
Styles: Machimura Suidi Rokudan, Ryukyu Kenpo, Kobudo, Judo
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 Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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I love that you are making your own weapons. I have been making mine for years and love the fact that you can customize them to your specific specifications.
I have made Tuifa and Rokushaku from Osage with good results after I learned how to turn it without ripping the wood. Osage is very fibrous and will tend to rip down from the area you are working especially if it contains too much moisture. It took me many tries to get this right and only after allowing the wood to cure and dry over the course of a year did I get decent results. However once sanded and sealed its a very dense material that will take a huge amount of punishment and is great for Kumite. I have also made Eku, Tuifa, Rokushaku and Kama from White and Red Oak.
On the none turning side I have made Tecchu out of Ipe with a band saw, hole saw on a drill press. Rounded corners with Router table and finished sanded and sealed. Turned out OK.
I also have made my own blades by means of forging, heat treat and tempering.
Depending on the tools you have I may be able to give you some pointers on how you can use basic tools to accomplish the job.
Send me a PM if you want to talk about techniques.
_________________
The person who succeeds is not the one who holds back, fearing failure, nor the one who never fails-but the one who moves on in spite of failure.
Charles R. Swindoll |
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Bulltahr
Brown Belt
Joined: 08 Mar 2015
Posts: 727
Location: NEW ZEALAND
Styles: Shotokan, Seido Juku
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| Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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| LLLEARNER wrote: |
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OK, my dozey brain is actually being able to visualize most of what you are saying. I'm very keen to make a pair of tapered Octagonal. So starting dimensions would be........????? (average guy here). I am sure that I can find the knot and cord process on the Y tube. Weight wise, I have a number of options, hard light and hard heavier. What opinions are there on weight? I would be keen on your overall finished dimensions and what determined these based on your own dimensions etc. |
I started by cutting down a 2x4 to 1 1/2 inch square at approx 15 inches long. You can get 2 segments from 1 length. When cutting the corners off it still leaves 1 1/2 square measured from side to side.
2x4s are cheap and you can use a shorter length if you are just testing grip width.
The white oak I tried is heavy at 1 1/2. I am a total noob to nunchaku, but they seem like they would make a great heavy set for training or as an actual weapon. I understand that lighter ones are preferred for competition due to them being faster. I may be wrong on that. The weight can be altered by choosing a different wood. The spruce from the 2x4 is really light. Also, most people should be able to fit a range of diameters. This would also be a way to change the weight. |
Did you determine the dimensions of the nunchaku besed on your own dimensions, or did you use a "standard" size. I am thinking mainly on length of the nunchaku and also the cord between them.
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"We don't have any money, so we will have to think" - Ernest Rutherford |
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LLLEARNER
Brown Belt
Joined: 10 Feb 2016
Posts: 687
Location: Central Maine
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| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Bulltahr wrote: |
| LLLEARNER wrote: |
| Quote: |
OK, my dozey brain is actually being able to visualize most of what you are saying. I'm very keen to make a pair of tapered Octagonal. So starting dimensions would be........????? (average guy here). I am sure that I can find the knot and cord process on the Y tube. Weight wise, I have a number of options, hard light and hard heavier. What opinions are there on weight? I would be keen on your overall finished dimensions and what determined these based on your own dimensions etc. |
I started by cutting down a 2x4 to 1 1/2 inch square at approx 15 inches long. You can get 2 segments from 1 length. When cutting the corners off it still leaves 1 1/2 square measured from side to side.
2x4s are cheap and you can use a shorter length if you are just testing grip width.
The white oak I tried is heavy at 1 1/2. I am a total noob to nunchaku, but they seem like they would make a great heavy set for training or as an actual weapon. I understand that lighter ones are preferred for competition due to them being faster. I may be wrong on that. The weight can be altered by choosing a different wood. The spruce from the 2x4 is really light. Also, most people should be able to fit a range of diameters. This would also be a way to change the weight. |
Did you determine the dimensions of the nunchaku besed on your own dimensions, or did you use a "standard" size. I am thinking mainly on length of the nunchaku and also the cord between them. |
I used my own measurements. Standards seem to be up to about 12 inches mostly, with some reaching 13 inch. Also by doing straight I can cut them shorter later if I need to.
_________________
"Those who know don't talk. Those who talk don't know." ~ Lao-tzu, Tao Te Ching
"Walk a single path, becoming neither cocky with victory nor broken with defeat, without forgetting caution when all is quiet or becoming frightened when danger threatens." ~ Jigaro Kano |
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